If the dulce stack is rich and the Dubai stack is rich-er, the berry cloud is the one for people who want their pancake to taste like a summer morning.

We start with the same buttermilk batter — three fluffy pancakes, taller than they have any right to be. While they cook, the prep cook hulls and halves fresh strawberries, picks over blueberries, sometimes adds blackberries or raspberries depending on what's good that week from the South Florida growers we work with.

The cream is whipped soft (not stiff) with a small amount of sugar, a scrape of vanilla bean, and a generous zest of lemon. The lemon is the trick — it cuts through the cream and brightens the berries, so the whole stack tastes lighter than it looks.

Berries go between layers, more on top, a final cloud of cream, a few mint leaves, real maple syrup at the table.

$17. Vegetarian. The pancake to order when you don't want to feel weighed down afterwards.

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