The lemon ricotta is the pancake we recommend to anyone who says they don't usually like pancakes. It's lighter than it looks, brighter than the sweet stacks, and built around three flavours that always work together — lemon, dairy, blueberry.

The ricotta is whipped with a little cream, a touch of sugar, and a generous zest of lemon. It's almost a soft mousse by the time it goes on the plate. It sits between each pancake layer.

The lemon curd is made fresh — egg yolks, lemon juice, sugar, butter, cooked over a double boiler until it coats the back of a spoon. Cooled, then drizzled across the top.

Blueberry compote is the third element: berries cooked down briefly with a little sugar and a few drops of lemon until they collapse but the colour stays vivid. A few mint leaves to finish, real maple at the table.

$17. The brightest thing on the pancake list.

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