The Spanish cortado — sometimes called a bombón — is one of those drinks that sounds too sweet on paper and tastes exactly right in practice. Two ingredients. The proportions matter.

We pull a double shot of espresso into a small clear glass. The glass matters — Spanish cafés always serve it in glass so you can see the layers. While the espresso settles, we layer sweetened condensed milk slowly into the bottom using a long-handled spoon. The condensed milk is denser than the espresso, so it stays at the bottom in a beautiful caramel-coloured pool.

The drink is served unstirred. You stir it yourself at the table — that's part of the experience. The first sip is bitter espresso. The next is the sweet condensed milk. After you stir, the drink unifies into something balanced and rich, like a coffee dessert.

$5. Order it after a heavy lunch instead of dessert.

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